21-01-2014 | By

MBFWB AW 14/15: Stage Recap

BRACHMANN

When I entered the studio exhibition of newcomer label BRACHMANN for its debut season at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, I was immediately reminded of time way before fashionable minimalism overtook the catwalks.

BRACHMANNS AW 14/15 collection is a calm and classic menswear collection in toned down colors. From shirts, suits and trench coats, one could find many iconic menswear piece in it. With close inspection, I was able to pinpoint the source of inspiration for the collection and the feelings they evoked. The label’s looks transported us back to the mid 19th century, when men were fierce enough to dress up and boldly exhibit all their priceless cloths by strolling around the earliest department stores. I imagine George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, one of the first real dandies, as the muse to Brachmann’s AW collection. The swallowtail coats and pantaloons, are classic dandy inspired looks. The way the designer reworked these exemplary pieces from its historical influences into modern menswear items, is studied and smart.

Favorite items: the reinvention of the collar, the swallowtail coats and the white/light grey shirt with banded collar.

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