While the folks at IMG gave the opening runway slot of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin to English fashion designer Charlotte Ronson, the real excitement kicked off in the inaugural AW 15/16 stage presentation from Berlin’s own Ivanman. The young designer has been sitting pretty at the top of our list each season ever since he debuted his collection at mbfwb back in early 2013. This season, Ivanman brought technicolor bravura and daring forms to classic men’s wear pieces. Form fitting sports jerseys, searing bright knitwear and multi-strap, backless waistcoats were key layering pieces in a collection that lends credence to the idea that men’s wear can be exciting, playful, refined and wearable all at once. Additionally, a shoe collaboration with Shoe Passion saw the transformation of formal oxfords and derbies into dashing statement footwear. While past collections have demonstrated the designer’s affinity for contorting decisively classic looks, AW/15/16 proves that he can do so while ruminating on current trends such as athletic wear.
Over at Sadak, designer Sasa Kovacevic offered an interesting mash-up of styles that rides the wave of “cholo style” revival thats been gaining momentum this past year. This isn’t the first time where the style, which is a distinct product of Mexican-American subculture, has been appropriated by designers for the runway or by celebrities for show. The collection seemed less gimmicky and offensive coming from a designer like Kovacevic whose body of work is known for incorporating distinctive elements from a variety of ethnic cultures, subcultures, and historical periods. A broad range of charismatic models (including international It-boy Joey Ma) sported drop crotch shorts, knee high socks, print-crazy button ups, bright tunics and cavernous hoodies with cheeky sayings such as “thug life” emblazoned on collars and sleeves.
Multi-straps and body braces continued their streak on the Odeur runway, highlighting a textbook Odeur collection comprised of gender neutral bomber jackets, blazers, graphic elements, sweaters, and sheer skirts. Clinical accessories and cryptic words peppered a collection of opulent basics. The Swedish label have stuck to what they do best — modifying basics through a balancing act of exaggeration, simplification, and meticulousness.
Daniel Blechman made quite a statement with his almost all black collection. So Popular, known for its masculine and composed look, stepped up the ante this time with a collection that stayed close to the familiar structural shapes, but due to its explicit range of coated leathers and show-piece coats excelled beyond previous seasons. Rough, heavy outfits, stomping beats and mouth covering make-up clarified the armored feel that was the root of this collection. Near the end, the music became more subdued and simultaneously the fashion, with a waist coat in reversed lambskin.
Serenity is one of the first things that came to mind when looking at Augustin Teboul’s new collection that stuck with the designer duo’s trademark balance of opulence and restraint. Models gently walked up and down the stairs, slow-paced and in sync with the airy tunes, poetically dressed in all-black. Show pieces punctuated a collection that included a leather patchwork top, structured coats, and gossamer gowns. The presentation was complemented by a photo exhibition in which interesting figures from the Berlin scene don their newest collection, which made for an enjoyable alternative to the usual runway show.
Images courtesy of Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week Berlin
Images Augustin Teboul photographed by Sebastian Pielles