The ESMOD Berlin graduates of 2017 translated their concepts to showcase their final collections at Anomalie Art Club on the 14th of September. The 10th Annual show presented the works of 60 students in which representatives from Parsons, Dries Van Noten and Balenciaga formed a Jury to award their best of show favourites. A schedule of catwalk shows, installations and performances reigned the event. Here at Œ, we’ve compiled a list of debuting designers who caught our attention, unmissable talents to keep an eye on.
Thi Thuy Trang Nguyen collection ‘Blooming Exodus’ won the shows Prix Du Jury. The collection drew upon the tragic integration failure of vietnamese contract workers after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, thus unveiling a distorted images of Germany’s best integrated migrants. Bold printed knits teamed with twisted disrupted denim paraded down the runway with blooming bouquets in hand. Earthly khakis were belted up with clean tailoring and roll neck jumpers decorated with deformed floral prints. Denim jackets were draped and decaying blending a balance of beautiful wearable pieces with subtle twists and considered layering. Œ has to agree with the Prix Du Jury, this was definitely a collection worthy of recognition.
Lena-Marie Schütte’s collection ‘Global Authentica’ opened the evening show. The striking collection was inspired by the topic of cultural transfer. Schütte further explains that she took an ironic approach towards neocolonialism that she feels is partly induced by the second hand trade. The collision of raw frays and drapes set in dusty 70’s colour palettes were styled with clashing can heels that couldn’t help but bring reminiscent sentiments of Vetements. Lena-Marie also collaborated with Jaap Bräutigam to shoot her collection, a photographer to watch out for on the current Berlin fashion scene.
Valentin Mogg’s collection ‘All you can drink’ really did succeed in bringing some sunshine to this damp September day. The mettlesome amalgamation of floral prints amongst clashing stripes successfully managed to remain tasteful with the use of classic shapes and silhouettes suggestive of 1950’s hawaiian shirts and loungewear. The pleasing pastel colour palette presented a strong stylistic signature for the young designers debut.
Yulia Kjellsson’s collection ‘Temporary / I’m Fine’ displayed a unique selection of garments with the ability to create temporary shapes. Inspired by the satisfaction of impermanence in today’s society these garments were created with the purpose allowing the wearer to change their mind. Winner of the Prix Createur Kjelsson’s genderless garments glided down the runway with effortless ease draped, ruffled and manipulated. Sleeves merged and grew into gloves and strong greens and purples striked interesting contrasts.