10-11-2017 | By

Designers to Watch

UdK SCHAU17 – Highlights

This October welcomed the annual return of the ever-anticipated UdK graduate show. Once again, onlookers from the Berlin fashion scene gathered into the transformed Estrel Hotel in Neukölln—the multi runway catwalk draped in metallic fringing. Morphsuits, selfie sticks, and Grandfathers zigzagged over the runways providing a creatively charged show including Kasia Kucharska’s industrially constructed garments with gas can handbags, Katharina Lutat’s quilted boob job dress, to mention but a few highlights.

In the midst of the weird and wonderful, here are four designers to keep an eye on:

Eric Schieler – Alternative Facts, Photo: Seb Winter

Eric Schieler – Alternative Facts, Photos by Stini Röhrs, Model: David White, Make-up: Nicolaj Bishoff, Assistants: Moritz Zenker

Eric Schieler – Alternative Facts

The highly stylized BA Collection transported us to a sci-fi western scene. Buckled up chokers, transparent cowboy hats, and fluffy fringed shorts were just a few striking accessories worth mentioning. The use of silk and metallic fabrics brought a modern element to the collection, while laser cut lederhosen were layered on top of frilled boxers. Furthermore the inclusion of tailoring through hand edge stitching on peak lapels and unraveling shorts added a depth of detail to the garments. Subtle embroidery and boxy silhouettes also brought new life to classic denim pieces. Having already embarked on his MA at CSM, Πhopes to see more work from this young designer in the future!

André Törner – Über den Gegensinn Kleidung, Photo: Seb Winter

André Törner – Über den Gegensinn Kleidung, Photographer: Robbie Wilhelm, Models: Julius Girrbach (Modelwerk) & Kristine Krebs

André Törner – Über den Gegensinn der Kleidung

Drawn from research exploring German romanticism, neo-conservatism, and the meme generation, Törner’s BA collection opened the show and instantly caught our attention. With an impressive set of internships, including JW Anderson & Margiela under his belt, it comes as no surprise that Törner has already begun his MA at the RCA in London. Each outfit held distinct references, purposely chosen by the designer to create a fresh exciting collection; from a plexiglas military vest to degraded laser cut trousers styled with misshaped tainted sunglasses. This is definitely a collection worth recognition. Let the pictures of this collection talk for themselves.

Katharina Lutat, Photo: Seb Winter

Florian Máthé – Hannelore, Photo: Seb Winter

Florian Máthé – Hannelore, Photo: Stini Röhrs, Model: Julian Fricker, H&M: Johi van Bruises, Assistants: Christian Cheshire, Rabea Röhll

Florian Máthé – Hannelore

The BA collection entitled Hannelore takes its cue from Claire Waldoff, a famous cabaret artist of the 1920s chiefly known for her lesbian undertones, and from a song named after the iconic Berliner herself. Garment cuts were inspired by gender forms, revealing and showcasing the models figure. High waisted trousers emphasized a masculine crotch, padded sheer chiffon breasts were paired with chunky zipped up latex leotards, and elegant velvet sleeves elongated into gloves, symbolic of cabaret dancers. However Máthé twisted the elegance of these classic textiles into fetish club-wear.

Laura Stellacci – How to do things in words, Photo: Seb Winter

Laura Stellacci – How to do things in words, Model: Dennis Buck, Photography: Tim Vormbäumen

Laura Stellacci – How to do things in words

BA Graduate Stellacci focused her collection on the typographic direction of alphabetic letters. The direction of these letters acted as a path for the fabrics to form along the body. Dominated by knitwear, the textiles allowed maximum flexibility to hold the desired alphabetic shapes. Outfits were comprised of undergarments, such as looser knitted fragments, and bodysuits, layered over one another to create unique silhouettes. It was particularly interesting to watch these garments in motion whilst being worn on the catwalk. Loose ends of yarn dangled, whilst textile drapings created fluid movements, further enhanced by the primary color palette of bold red with pops of blue, green, and yellow.

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