One of a few highlights of this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin was surely the presentation of Augustin Teboul‘s AW 13/14 collection. Held at an off-site location, this time Galerie Thomas Schulte, I would have been wise to come by later when the first rush of people and the armada of cameras would have already exited.
Greeted by an installation of four models, dressed in looks from the latest collection, partly veiled by smoke and dim lights, the actual presentation was held in the back room.
Through arms, tripods and winter jackets a unique and beautiful setting unfolded. Slowly walking on a course of platforms of varying heights, more than 20 models passed huge pulsating, studio-like lamps to fill the installation. Staying true to itself, Augustin Teboul used black as its singular color choice. Heavy and delicate knits, lace, various woolen fabrics, leather, silk and applications of pearls, fringes, rhine stones and tassels added texture and depth of an unparalleled variety. Hats and caps, reminders of ethnic and traditional costumes completed the picture and will surely find their way into countless editorials.
In spite of, or perhaps due to the lavish use of materials and intricate detailing on each piece, there was an underlying feeling that you were witnessing something new to Augustin Teboul’s collections: a sense of humor and lightness in uncovering new ways within the self-imposed universe of the color black. What is rare in an industry where multiple trends are certain to emerge each season, is the designers choice to utilize traditional craftsmanship to produce up-to-date fashion that does not follow trends.
Wonderful and always surprising, Augustin Teboul is a rare addition to the German fashion scene, a scene that often enough seems to favor profitability over creativity.
Just like that, “Somewhen”, Augustin Teboul’s AW 13/14 collection, accomplishes both ambitions by embracing creativity that does not abandon wearability.
All photos thanks to Trevor Good