On the third day and busiest day of fashion week, we headed first to Berlin newbie Capara. Just before their first Berlin show commenced, the founding sisters talked to us backstage about the namesake label’s newest collection inspired by works from Flemish Renaissance, in particular Breughel. With outfits having a heavy focus stunning shoulder details in the most exquisite prints, the Antwerp-based, German-raised design duo lived up to their promise. Graphic, Mondrian-like jacquards, laced-up finishing and an exquisite use of color were some of the phenomenal elements that made this collection so great. They played with softer hues as a base for colorful screen prints, balanced heavy wools with fluid satins and succeeded in pairing the most voluminous shapes with figure skimming trousers.
Best basics would be the best way to describe Hien Le’s show at the Kronprinzenpalais and Autumn Ready-to-wear is certainly where the young designer’s game is at. Everything, you need to take the foundation of a great wardrobe to the next level. We adored Hien’s painterly prints and even more so the complementary waves of cobalt blue. Sportswear elements made its way into the collection through neoprene fabrics, giving the looks a performance tech touch.
Only a couple of months after receiving his master’s degree William Fan quickly made his way to the catwalk. Those who can remember our article on the I AM MA Weißensee graduation presentation, might remember our excitement over his collection. Japanese influences beautifully intertwined with what we believe William does best: sharp tailoring. Origami tops and dresses paired with structured, skinny trousers and kimono vests were only some of the manners displayed his savvy finishing skills. Apart from the old showstoppers we saw at his graduation such as the organza-layered tops, oversized embellishments and quilted jackets, Fan also added some extra show pieces for this runway, including a breathtaking full leather look.
Let’s use the designs duo’s own words to describe this collection: the palette is subtle, yet surprising; the look is discrete yet new. This season was as Perret Schaad as Perret Schaad gets, with a collection that contained all the elements the brand is known for: elegance, understatement and divine draping. Subtle asymmetries sweetened an overall serious, straight thinking collection. There is a fluidity between the designers’ past Autumn collections that lead us right to the very last look sent down the runway this fashion week. While fashion is always shoring up surprises and welcoming change, we commend Perret Schaad for sticking to their guns and giving us reliable, yet beautiful upgrades each season
All images courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin