The signs of spring’s impending dawn are mounting by the day, with winter sale stock dwindling and stores taking their first deliveries for SS16. As bulky winter bombers and woollen scarfs lose practical worth (well, perhaps not here in Berlin… not for a few months anyway), we thought to offer you a preview of a collection from one of the city’s hottest-tipped designers, Louise Freidlaender.
The Cologne-born ESMOD graduate is without doubt a torchbearer for the next generation of the German contemporary scene, an honour attested to by this season’s collection. Focussing as much on “colour and silhouette” as on “traditional craftsmanship that goes beyond tailoring”, her SS16 offerings are among this season’s most versatile, with fitted slip dresses in colourful knits alongside jackets and string strapped crop tops in earthy-toned linens.
Meticulously structured and distinctly feminine, Friedlaender relies on simple silhouettes to draw attention to her mastery of craft. Ruggedly finished fabrics in a trademark palette of neutral and natural tones, frayed at the edges and seams, are offset by warm flashes of colour, thus resulting in looks endowed with impressive textural depth, all while refraining from an all-too-often-seen heaviness. If anything is to be taken from this collection, it is that the sights of industry-heads and admirers alike are to remain trained on Friedlaender for some time to come.