‘Zaum’, the larger than life collection from Marta Gos (London College of Fashion) is impressive considering it’s the young designer’s first. Inspired by names such as Phyllida Barlow or Clemens Behr, artists mostly working with recycled materials and random items, she has crafted unique silhouettes from scratch. Garments over garments, paint layers over paint layers, her practise is all about destruction and recreation. Looking at her creations alone, we can already feel the heavy nature of the fabrics used, with wool and other blended cotton jerseys worn like hefty armor.
Experimentation is a recurrent theme in Gos’ world. Fabric research is an important part of her work. From flockling to foiling to painting, the designer isn’t afraid to play with new textile creations and organic patterns. For her collection, she collaborated with artist Riitta Hakkarainen to come up with subtle and abstract shapes made from upcycled acrylic creating a special congealed paint-like look that tinges of visual distortion.
Marta Gos is certainly one to keep an eye on and it will be interesting to watch her translate her artistic vision into a commercial line that is slated for release this Fall.