The world of Martin Niklas Wieser is one without time, and one in which gender is but a vague understanding. Contrary to conventional practice, Wieser does not “construct something which simply exists, but rather [he] [designs] something which, when used by the wearer, continues to develop in its own way”, creating pieces that may not scream out for attention, but are unfailing in their ability to capture it. While Wieser’s work is both elusive and critically aware, it is also takes wearability firmly into account; the words of the designer himself, “the garment is brought to life through its wearability”.
In his most recent collection, he collaborated with textile designer Nadine Goepfert, who was recently featured under the Œ spotlight. “What I really like about Martin’s work is that his collections are not necessarily based on research, but more growing out of each other and developing within the process. I also like that he is positioning himself out of the fashion field into some kind of art context, not really relying on the seasonal fashion system. His collections are drawing on some kind of anti-aesthetic that might leave one with some look of inquiry and makes you curious’’, she says to sleek. The garments designed for this “smooth and muted utopia” both draw inspiration from and plainly exhibit the industrial processes of product creation, harmonizing various, seemingly disparate, finishes and techniques. The results serve as crossroads between the infrastructures of mass production and high-end ready to wear. Giving a definition to Wieser’s work is a challenge in itself, but, given that his creations don’t necessarily conform to a single concept, existing in constant development, restraining his work with a single definition is in fact beside the point.
Photos | Alexandre de Brabant
Styling | Erik Raynal
Hair | Franziska Presche
Make-Up | Marianna Serwa
Model | Jesse (Tomorrow Is Another Day)
Model | Zoe (Tune Models)
Model | Malik (Modelwerk)
Textile | Design Nadine Goepfert